In Bangladesh, I experienced humanity’s innate goodness

With Rose, riding a rickshaw in Dhaka

I still wonder why I didn’t write about this important event in my life many years ago when everything was still fresh in my mind. Maybe I just wanted to keep everything to myself, worried that if this story gets published, the beauty of the moment will be diminished.

Early in my career, I was assigned in Dhaka, Bangladesh, to manage and coordinate the preparations for an international conference, which was going to be attended by civil society groups engaged in social development, environment, justice and equity, governance and empowerment. I was a little anxious on the day of my departure from Manila. After all, it was my first time to be away from home for more than a month (my Dhaka stint was to last for six months). It was also a little disconcerting that some people think being assigned in Bangladesh–considered as a hardship post–is not a good decision at that time. While these things somehow came to my mind, I genuinely looked forward to the experience. I cannot explain that, too. Perhaps it was a combination of uncertainty and excitement.

In Manila, my friends even declared a wager–that I wouldn’t last there for more than a month. Not that Manila is a paradise. Although, I must say that despite Manila’s chaos and horrible traffic, there are many things to love about it, including the social scene. Nevertheless, as you know, people somehow think that Dhaka is not always in people’s bucket list. I didn’t ever think of Dhaka (or any other place, for that matter) as a place that shouldn’t be visited but of course, I imagine what they may be thinking. Dhaka, back then, was almost always being unfairly translated to images of poverty, political instability, and floods. Somehow, there’s a parallelism because to many, Manila = horrendous traffic.  But this piece will not really try to dissect into those generalizations. For many of us, traveling is really about discovering more of the world including its hidden gems. Every place will always have something beautiful to give or teach us. Yes, we see poverty everywhere (including my home country)—but we also experience genuine smiles, friendly and warm people, hardworking and creative artisans, and beautiful places in the road less traveled.

There were many wonderful things that happened to me in Dhaka and I would probably need a series of posts just to share them all with you. But one thing that really stands out is this very touching story of my encounter with a shop-owner.

Almost every weekend, I would go to this marketplace where I would usually purchase my week’s supplies of food, drinks, and personal necessities like toiletries. Around that time in Dhaka, there was no big shopping mall yet. Nothing like Manila’s SM Megamall or Bangkok’s MBK.  The closest that one can find is a 4-storey store called Aarong where Bangladesh-made products are sold (at that time, even Aarong would seem small if situated beside SM or MBK). For grocery and household items, one can only get them in marketplaces that are similar to Divisoria or Baclaran stalls in Manila, only smaller. These shops are nothing modern or swanky but it is exactly this character that made them more memorable; they smell of history, embodying the quaint charm and traditions of the old world. They reminded me of small shops and nooks back home, bringing to mind a certain air of familiarity. Some shops/stalls are air-conditioned, some are not. There would usually be three or lesser sales staff to attend to the customers. Of course, things could be different now.

Anyway, on that particular weekend, I needed to buy mostly toiletries so I went to this shop where I figured familiar brands are sold. Those silly things that we mortals are sometimes guilty about whenever we are away from our comfort zones…ahhh, forgive my youth and ignorance back then! Nowadays, I guess I am older and hopefully, wiser and would likely prefer products that are locally-made or grown! And for Asian economies’ sake, I hope we Asians can patronize more of our locally-made products. After all, we are are building our future!

Not to get sidetracked…the shop owner kindly helped me find shampoo, conditioner, lotion, tissue paper, and the like. I was so happy with my finds and confidently took out my wallet from my bag….but lo and behold, I realized that my wallet didn’t have any local notes (taka) in it! I just suddenly remembered that I failed to put new notes in it as I was in a hurry to leave my flat a couple of hours earlier. I started apologizing to the shop owner, explaining that I don’t have any taka in my wallet and that I could no longer buy all the items that he kindly prepared for me. It was all wrapped up in a brown bag and I felt so guilty just thinking about how he helped me with my planned purchases.

I thought I would just simply leave the shop after getting his acceptance of my apologies. I was wrong. Because the next thing I heard was, “It’s ok, Madam…you can take everything home with you, no problem…just come back another time so you can pay me.” And with those words, I saw the most sincere and kindest smile in the whole world. I think that I was so shocked with that gesture that I was speechless for half a minute. As I still couldn’t believe my ears, all I blurted out was, “Are you sure??” And he said, “Yes, Madam, I am very sure.”

The next thing I knew, I was already teasing him. I said, “Well, for all you know, I may be flying home to my country tomorrow and you won’t get your money anymore.” With that, he simply said, “I am sure you are coming back here.” Wow. I suddenly realized, there are really small miracles that can happen in our daily lives but sometimes, we just miss them or take them for granted.

And so, armed with my package, I happily prepared to leave his shop and whispered a silent thank you to the divine-source-universe who makes things like this possible. Of course, I couldn’t stop thanking the shop owner that I swear, I was ready to hug him right there and then.

One week after that, I went to the shop and the moment he remembered me, his eyes sparkled and said, “See, Madam, I told you, you are coming back!” We started laughing together!

I paid what I owed him, and added some more. I even ended up buying  a whole month’s supply of toiletries!

What more can I say? Dhaka didn’t just give me quiet moments, beautiful friendships, wonderful sceneries, French language lessons, soulful chanting (that I hear from a nearby mosque every morning and evening), opportunity to work with committed NGO workers, and unexpected help from office mates (who went as far as bringing a broken shoe to a shoemaker). It also gave me a deep reaffirmation of the beauty of life – that in every corner of this world, there is a little kindness just waiting to happen.

Dhaka can really be a challenging place to most people used to ‘big city’ living. But for me, it is indeed a very soulful place, still full of old charms, of genuinely kind people, of people who still give their trust unconditionally. I would probably never experience that kind of gesture anywhere else in the world. But then again, who knows?!

To the people of Bangladesh, and for those who opened their hearts to me, including the shop owner who trusted me in ways I could not probably experience elsewhere, I vow in complete honor and gratitude. The memories remain and they continue to inspire me. I pray that all of you are safe and living your lives fully, strengthened by the courage and sincerity of your hearts. Namaste!

[This is a repost of an earlier blog from my previous site].


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