Tashkent, you surprised me (and why I’m definitely coming back)
Uzbekistan is a destination that one would rather keep as a secret (just kidding). But certainly, there is something so serene with it. It’s like a treasure that must be hidden for as long as possible because by revealing it, one faces the risk of losing some of its magic.
Truth be told, before my trip, it wasn’t high up in my bucket list (yet). Not because it hasn’t interested me enough; it’s more about the logistics–there is no direct flight from Manila and the schedule would not be something that can be squeezed-in over a long weekend. However, there are infinite possibilities that happen and a work-related trip to Tashkent was placed by the divine on my calendar.
Before taking you along in this journey, I’d like to share this image of the view outside the window as our plane flew over what I assume are the mountain ranges of Northern China. It’s beautiful and almost surreal, isn’t it? Except for the need to lower the resolution, this photo was not edited so the colors are exactly how I have seen them. At first, I thought I was dreaming. Because I was dozing off and waking up every 30 minutes or so, I was in a sort of trance state. For a minute or so, I really thought it was a dream sequence so that I needed to look around me to check if I was truly where I’m supposed to be. As a photography enthusiast, I especially enjoy looking at and taking photos of wispy and luminous clouds during flights; waiting for and recognizing the different shapes that they form fascinates me. But this one is the best I’ve experienced so far. After watching the magnificent skies go by, I fell asleep again, comforted by the mesmerizing blues, violets, and pinks–a rare bursting of evening colors that will stay with me forever.
A couple of hours later, I woke up to this expanse of beauty.
Blue and white mountains, as far as my eyes can see. It is as if the universe and Mama Earth decided to give us their best views ever. I was literally and figuratively in the clouds, experiencing the stillness and peace. The reminder of hope and the depth of bliss. And this is what I hope this post will remind you–that the skies will always amaze us, that in every passage of time, there is beauty and stillness to be embraced, to be inspired from, and to live for.
Buying a local SIM card–a must!
Back to the mundane. It was time to land and I was surprised that our group was ushered to what could be a special section of the Islam Karimov Tashkent International Airport. I am mentioning this because for first time travelers to Uzbekistan, it is recommended to get a local SIM so you can download a car-hailing app such as Yandex Go. (Please note that I am not, in any way, related to Yandex Go /Yandex). My experience with Yandex Go is really good. It’s reliable and efficient that it made my plans to see some parts of the city workable. (As you will understand, a work-related trip does not usually allow much opportunities for sightseeing.)
To continue, I realized we were not in the usual arrival area. (I later learned that business and first class travelers would typically be ushered directly to the VIP /CIP Lounge. This means, this is not where you’d be able to buy a local SIM.) There were few shops and people in that section of the airport. The only shop that sells a local SIM does not carry the most recommended network and the only variant available was not really suitable for short-term travelers.
Fortunately, I saw a group of airline crew and one of the stewardesses directed me how to get to the main arrival area. Looking at my luggages (and maybe of how tired I looked), she advised me to take a “short-cut” as the usual route to the other side of the airport is actually a long walk. Thank you, God-universe, I said to myself. Just on Day 1, and I’m already greeted by the legendary kindness of Uzbek people. I followed the kind lady’s instructions and voila, I easily found the main arrival area and saw a kiosk that sells local SIM cards. The gentleman who assisted me also kindly installed the SIM and even downloaded and installed the Yandex app. (Side note: Mobiuz, Beeline and Ucell have good coverage in Uzbekistan. Beeline is highly recommended for having the most extensive and reliable network. However, since I will not be traveling outside Tashkent, I opted for Ucell, following the advice of the kind gentleman at the shop.)
Tashkent is a walkable city
What a great trip this is turning out to be, I said to my guardian angels again! Upon arriving at the Holiday Inn Tashkent and meeting one of my colleagues the next day, I realized I did the right thing. Because all of us took business class seats (even if we took different airlines), they were also ushered to the VIP Lounge so that they didn’t have the chance to buy a local SIM anymore. To make the long story short, no one has Yandex Go except me. This means it was tougher for them to go around the city especially in the evenings. (Of course, Tashkent has a very reliable metro system with its unique architectural features and artistic elements but for those on short trips, it’s better to download an app.)
I offered to book rides for my colleagues whenever I can and for the last evening of the meeting, three of us simply decided to hang out for dinner. (One booking instead of three = better!) And so, Yandex Go is actually the reason why I was able to visit some of the best spots of Tashkent. As you might imagine, with a work-related travel, the only “free” time for sightseeing is the evenings. In my case, I also had a day to spare because my flight was leaving on the Saturday after our meeting. Therefore, again, Yandex Go is the key! 😉
On the right is Seoul Mun, a commercial complex [Bahodir Street, 69/1, National Park Metro Station]. This is where we had dinner on the last night of our mission. It was already my second time to go there as I also went there the previous night to explore and, of course, buy books (a ritual that I always do during travels).
I am not much of a “mall person” but I enjoyed Seoul Mun. It was built by the Burjar canal so it’s scenic (and mind you, the water is clean). It has everything that one expects in a mall–cafés, restaurants (many with terraces), street food, shops, and boutiques–but one of its best features are the nightly musical fountain shows and its walkable design. It’s enjoyable to simply walk around, sit and people-watch, and hang out with family and friends. It does not feel ‘constricting’ because the canal and the open atmosphere still allow a nature or natural vibe. In fact, this is what I have noticed in Tashkent–it is being transformed to a modern city, yet, there is mindfulness in allowing people to enjoy parks and open spaces. The central business district (where our hotel is situated) is in the vicinity of the Tashkent City Park. Twice, I was able to walk around here. I was beginning to feel envious of Tashkent residents as I walked by this well-developed and large park. I saw families and couples enjoying their after-school/office hours. I remember a mother running after her daughter, barefooted, her shoes dangling from both hands, while laughing and simply enjoying the moment. It is so idyllic, like a scene from a favorite film.
The Tashkent City Park
Uzbekistan is where people are always ready to give and spread kindness
On my first evening, I was able to eat outside immediately. I went to a mall near the hotel (I think it’s the Tashkent City Mall) as I also needed to buy some toiletries. The distance is actually walkable from the hotel but I wanted to get the hang of using Yandex Go as well as save my energy (I was still tired from my flights). One thing that I already began noticing was how gracious and kind Uzbeks are. Sure, I read about it online but it is very heartwarming and memorable to experience the ‘real deal.’
There was also a very touching experience with a Yandex Go driver, which I also shared in my Instagram. It was on the day that I was able to make a quick visit to the revered Hazrati Imam Complex. It became an unforgettable experience not only because of its impressive architecture and heritage but also because on this day, I was blessed (again) with a story of kindness.
The complex is located in an old residential district of Tashkent. It was built in honor of the Hazrati Imam (aka Abu-Bakr Muhammad Kaffal Shashi) who was the first Imam and preacher of Islam in Tashkent, as well as an esteemed theologian, linguist, poet, and craftsman. The world famous Quran of Caliph Uthman-Ottoman, widely believed to be the oldest surviving copy of the Quran in the world, is kept there (IslamiCity, 2025). [1]
The Hazrati Imam Complex
At the time of my visit, the complex and the roads around it were under repair. There were traffic reroutings and, I supposed, even local drivers could easily get lost in finding where a passenger could be picked up. I was using Yandex Go but because I could not speak Russian /Uzbek and many drivers don’t speak English, it could get tricky. It was dark already when I began walking to what I assume as the easiest exit point. My driver came but he could not locate me. I tried talking to him but we couldn’t understand one another. My phone’s charge was also getting lower by the minute.
It was at this point when I noticed a family walking toward me. I asked one of the women if she speaks English. She does! To make the long story short, she explained the situation to her father and immediately, he spoke to my driver. It lasted about 8 minutes (with the father giving exact directions, I suppose, judging from the way he was gesturing with his hands). Halfway during their conversation, the father also asked for my nationality. I assumed this was to ensure the driver will pick up the correct passenger.
I couldn’t thank them enough when they assured me that the driver will certainly find me! (True enough, he was there in no time at all.) Amusingly, the first thing that the driver asked me when he approached me was, “Philippines?” 😉 This confirmed that it was the reason for the query of the father earlier as to my nationality. I was also especially touched because the driver parked his car across the street, perhaps, planning to walk around the area if he could not find me at the designated spot. This truly made my visit to the complex (and in Uzbekistan) extra special because I experienced, once again, the power of random acts of kindness.
Uzbekistan is a haven for history, heritage, and architecture fans
My heart, eyes, and soul truly feasted on the richness of Uzbekistan’s heritage, architecture, and other historical assets. And I was only in Tashkent and on a very short trip; what more if I explored other places such as Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva?
Fortunately, Tashkent has lots to offer. On the last day of our mission, a colleague of mine and I was able to explore the famous Chorsu Bazaar, a must-go in Tashkent. Here, one can find local produce (e.g., nuts, dried fruits, teas, and spices) and handcrafted products and souvenirs. The building itself is an architectural wonder and a piece of art. Don’t miss it! Of course, I bought lots of nuts and teas as pasalubong (homecoming gifts). I could not believe the price of the nuts and dried fruits (e.g., walnuts, cashew nuts, almonds, pistachios, and apricot kernels)–they are so cheap.
The Chorsu Bazaar
The exciting array of local produce and handcrafted products at Chorsu Bazaar
For travelers and wanderers like me who paint and enjoy photography, Uzbekistan will never disappoint. There are colors, shapes, and vibrant history in the shops, market places, and restaurants. The creative in you will simply be in awe, inspiring you to co-create art and memories. I will probably not get tired of Uzbekistan even if I go there for five or even 10 times. On my last day in Tashkent (and the day of my departure), I did my best to squeeze in some more of the city. The first in my list is the Minor Mosque. Truly, it was a sight to behold. I am humbled by the experience.
The Minor Mosque
The Minor Mosque is not an old building but one can still experience a bit of history because of its design approach. Located, along bank of Anhor canal, it was designed based on traditional oriental and Uzbek architectural styles. The main building hosts a large prayer hall. It differs from other mosques in Uzbekistan because it is covered in white marble. On a clear or sunny day (yes, I was gifted with that kind of day on my visit), it shines beautifully and merges with the blue skies. According to the official website of the mosque, the interior is decorated in Naqsh style (with Quranic and other texts) and can accommodate more than 2,400 people. [2]
Here, I found a special friend
As we spent more time indoors and in meetings due to our mission, I did my best to spend time with the locals despite the limited opportunities. Twice or thrice, I’d spend lunch or dinner in a cozy café beside Holiday Inn Tashkent. Called Iconic Cafe & Boutique, I met a very kind and gracious lady, with whom I am still keep in contact with. At one point, she even allowed me to leave my things there (including my laptop) as I went to Hilton Hotel to find a forex counter (because my credit card didn’t work….more on this later). Another side story is that Uzbekistan is a safe place. Of course, I didn’t really expect my new friend to watch over my table all the time but I already sensed that all my things will still be there when I return.
Iconic Cafe & Boutique is pretty, cozy, and relaxing isn’t it? I could stay here forever! And it is also here that I found the best-ever Napoleon cake (mille-feuille in French cuisine). I’m serious. I love this dessert but their version is truly the best I’ve ever had in my whole life. Their main courses and coffee are great, too.
In one of the evenings, I also walked around Sailgokh Street (also called Broadway Boulevard). I read online that Sayilgokh Street connects two important squares of Tashkent–the Amir Temur Square and Mustakillik (Independence) Square. Unfortunately, I went at night time so I didn’t have the time to explore the squares anymore. Nevertheless, it was such a nice evening, just being with the locals–walking, eating, and chatting up with friends and loved ones. I also tried their local sandwiches and found myself an empty table by one of the stalls, which I readily shared with a gentleman who was eventually joined by a friend. I wanted to start a conversation but I realized I don’t speak Russian/Uzbek (haha) so I politely excused myself after finishing my sandwich. Still, I intuited their graciousness, even if we simply shared a table for a few minutes. What a perfect evening, indeed!
Below are pictures I took of Sailgokh Street and one of the lounge areas of Holiday Inn (because I like the illustration on the wall).
[Above, left] Sailgokh Street; [Above, right] One of the lounge areas of Holiday Inn Tashkent
I’m dropping a few more photos below. I hope to share more photos in my future posts, too. In the meantime, I just want to say: thank you so much, Tashkent! You surprised me with the beauty and richness of your heritage and old world charm, with the care and mindfulness in creating a modern city that is still green, inclusive, safe, and walkable, and most importantly, with the graciousness, warmth, and kindness of your people. You were not a priority in my bucket list but now, I am excited to say that I will certainly be back, not once but many times!
The iconic Hotel Uzbekistan.
[Above, left] The talented musicians of Holiday Inn; [Above, right] The condo complexes beside Holiday Inn
Through this piece, I also want to say thanks to the musicians who played for dining guests at the hotel’s main restaurant. I was not able to get their names but I truly appreciate their music and talents. Back then, I wasn’t learning violin yet but hopefully, on my next travel, I’d be able to bring my violin and have a chance to play a song or two with them. Walang makaka-pigil sa akin! [No one can stop me!] Seriously, music is indeed a universal language and I truly treasure those times of stillness where music fills our soul.
Suffice to say, I fell in love with Uzbekistan–not just because of its rich heritage and culture but more importantly, because of its warm, helpful, gracious, talented, and kind people. I shall be back!
References
[1] IslamiCity. (2025). Quran Written by Uthman (ra) Preserved in Tashkent. https://www.islamicity.org/104417/quran-written-by-uthman-ra-preserved-in-tashkent/
[2] The Minor Mosque. (n.d.). https://legacy.uz/en/mechet-minor/
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